A320 Cockpit Colors

I’ve been a bit of research on what colors are used in the A320 cockpit.

Let me preface by saying that yes… these colors may not be exact but I can say for certain that they are pretty dang close.

There are 2 colors in the cockpit, the grey that can be found on the MIP, the pedestal, the overhead, and all the breaker panels. And a blue that can be found on the sidewalls of the pedestal and on the sidestick housings.

The grey used is RAL 7031 (#6B767B). Using the site: https://www.easyrgb.com/ I was able to find close matches found in normal house paint collections. I decided to try Whale Gray (N470-60) from Behr which can be bought at Home Depot.

As you can see it’s a pretty close match but I would like to get even better. Not to mention having to roll paint onto my custom panels is not exactly Ideal.

The blue used is RAL 5017 (#136398). The closest match in the Behr collection I could find is Cosmic Cobalt (P500-7D)

Again not a perfect match so on to my proposed solution…

I came across https://www.myperfectcolor.com/RAL-Paint-Colors/148.htm which lets you enter RAL color codes and order custom mixed spraypaint cans! Which I’m thinking would look way better than rolled on house paint. Not to mention easier and quicker. Once I order some and get a chance to test the results I’ll be sure to post my findings.

Just a quick note about the finish. On the actual panel I own it is definitely a matte or satin finish. I’ll be comparing that once I custom order my paint batch.

Finally an update on the A320!

Work and life in general has been pretty hectic lately so updates have been pretty slow… But I had a user on the FlyByWire discord suggest I make more posts. So I’m going to make an effort to do that.

I ended up buying a real Airbus component. A cockpit door control panel. (119VU) Not the most exciting panel but one of the cheapest. It is also a great source of reference material! Paint color, a korry switch/indicator, toggle switch, pushbutton, backlighting color, dzus fasteners and of course the panel sizes themselves!

Once I got it I spent a while admiring the wiring and trying to reverse engineer it. I eventually got it all lit up and was happy to find that it all worked!

Aside from that ive been collecting a bunch of pictures and reference documents, even some wood and tools! I’m super excited! It looks like I’ll be starting on the pedestal first. In the next post I’ll go into a bunch more detail about all the small things I’m trying to sort out. Like paint colors and actual panel construction.

Thanks for reading!

Long time no see

Wow! it’s been a while since my last post here. Life sure has gotten busy and hectic for me…. and while I guess many people eh? There haven’t really been any big projects on my radar but I’m happy to say that’s going to change. My new job has allowed me to be able to buy a tool I’ve wanted for a very long time…

I bought a 60W Laser cutter/engraver! Ultimately I hope to be able to start making an Airbus A320 flight simulator. I have started doing some planning work on it already and of course will post here when I am able to start working on this project. I do have some smaller laser projects in mind and I will keep you updated on those as well. This laser is quite a beast weighing over 300 lbs and with a work bed of 20 x 28 inches. It will take a while to set up and start learning, but im super eager and excited!

That’s about all I have for now. Hope everyone stays safe and healthy!

Happy Holidays!

My new alternative to wood screws… kinda

As you saw in my last post where I built a prototype MTG card tray, I had some pretty decent issues with wood splitting. In retrospect using screws on 1/2″ mdf wasn’t the best choice. Initially I thought a brad nailer may have been the best choice. However I found an even better method thanks to Adam Savage and his YouTube channel, Tested. In a couple of his recent videos he mentioned pin nailers. Pin nailers are like brad nailers but they shoot very thin fasteners that are virtually invisible once in your material.

I haven’t had a chance to use it in any of my own projects yet but the results are quite amazing on some scrap MDF I had lying around.

There is atleast 20 nails in this board!

I also put some pegboard up in the shed today, turned out quite nice. Next up will be a workbench to go under it.

Card Tray Built!

I managed to make my way into town the other day and buy some supplies for the project I mentioned in my previous post. I picked up a 24x48x1/2 inch MDF sheet and a pack of 6 x 1″ flathead robertson woodscrews.

I made quick work of drawing out the parts to be cut.
The base plate and 4 walls cut out!
After all the the dividers are installed and everything is screwed in. You’ll notice some problems have arose.


As you probably noticed I had some pretty substantial splitting issues this was due to 2 errors on my part. Initially my pilot holes were too small putting too much stress on the wood. Additionally my chosen screws were a bit too wide. I suspect I should have been using around a #3 or #4 screw rather than a #6. At first I was a little disappointed but have decided to treat this first run as a proof of concept. My chosen size and dimensions seem to be perfect for what I have in mind.

All in all I am pleased with the experience even if the quality is lacking, for the next trays I build I am expecting the quality to be much higher.

Mistakes are never a bad thing if you learn from them!

Quarantine Creativity

After weeks stuck in the house I needed some sort of creative outlet so I decided to begin planning a long needed project….. A storage solution for my MTG card collection.

They’ve been stuck in a box for years now. >.>

The Idea I had in mind was a set of around 4 drawers in one unit. So as a start I began designing the tray portion which I hope in the end I can make removable from the unit.

My goal was to make it fairly minimal and easy to build while still having a large capacity. This design uses exclusively 1/2″ MDF and will hold approximately 8,162 cards. Each tray is made up of 11 pieces in only 4 sizes.

  • 1x Bottom Plate: 25″ x 15″
  • 2x Sidewalls: 15″ x 2.5″
  • 2x Front & Back walls: 24″ x 2.5″
  • 6x Dividers: 14″ x 2.5″

Total: 780 sq in

As shown in the side view the cards will extend up to one inch above the sides of the tray. This allows you to be able to file through your cards easily.

It may be impractical for me to make it out to buy the materials for a while but I will be sure to post updates when I make progress!

Stay healthy everyone!

…how I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love I2C

Some form of display is often vital on your arduino projects.Let me introduce you to the HD44780 character LCD.

It’s quite a common and cheap display solution that is relatively easy to use. It often finds its way into many arduino starter kits for these reasons. Ive used it a few times in my projects but have always been annoyed by one aspect…. the high amount of pins and the requirement of a resistor for the backlight and a potentiometer for the contrast.

The typical wiring setup for the display

As you can see the board uses up 6 data pins on your board which can be a pain on the smaller boards I’ve been using lately. Then I discovered I2C (I squared C).

I2C is a method of using addresses to run many devices on only 2 data lines.

With this we can run these LCD displays with a total of 4 wires. This is handy on boards like the ESP8266 or ESP32 with few pins. I plan on using a I2C compatible display on a project in the near future. I ordered the larger 4 line version in fact.

The code for the I2C display is quite similar to the regular versions.

#include <Wire.h> 
#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>

LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27,16,2);  // set the LCD address to 0x27 for a 16 columns and 2 row display

void setup() {
  lcd.init();       //initialize lcd screen
  lcd.backlight();  // turn on the backlight

void loop() {
  delay(1000);                   //wait for a second
  lcd.setCursor(0,0);            // tell the screen to write on the top row
  lcd.print("LCD TEST");         // tell the screen to write “hello, from” on the top row
  lcd.setCursor(0,1);            // tell the screen to write on the bottom row
  lcd.print("Hello World!");     // tell the screen to write "Hello World!" on the bottom row

2020 update

Hello all! Hope you have been well over the holidays. I’m writing this post to just give a minor update. Is you’ve seen I’ve been mainly using this blog as a place to post my progress on my Objects in Space Arduino build. However the game has albeit abandoned by the developer in a move that gave its loyal fans virtually zero proper communication. The game claims to be in a 1.0 full release and yet is still plagued by bugs and being sold at full price, with little to no hope that things will be fixed.

It’s because of that I rather reluctantly urge people to NOT buy the game and support this habit that Flat Earth Games has gotten themselves into…. this isn’t the only game they have done this to. This game had SO MUCH potential and it hurts to see it tossed in the trash. Therefor I’m putting my OiS arduino project on hold for now.

As for the fate of this blog I intend to keep it alive and thriving. I am working on other arduino projects and just started attending college to be a Wind Turbine Technician. So needless to say I have a wealth of electronics information coming my way.

Thanks for all the support thus far!

Adding the “Reactor”

Sure has been a while since my last update. I’ve been in a bit of a lull in terms of progress on this project, partially due to the current state of the game and also due to my busy schedule as of late. Nevertheless i can show the bit of progress I’ve made since my last post.

As you probably know, the devs decided to use a fan to represent the reactor of the payer’s ship, the fan would spin when the reactor is powered and stop when it is not. I thought this was a neat idea so I decided to follow a similar path on my panel and expand on the concept. I started by sourcing a 5v USB powered PC cooling fan on AliExpress. I bought a 4.5 inch hole saw to make the hole to mount it in. This worked well however i was a bit careless in drilling out the hole resulting in a minor gouge in my panel.

oops >.>

At first I was rather disappointed but then came up with a decent solution. I happened to have a coworker with a 3D printer, he was happy to print me a bezel for the fan which will hide the damage and actually makes it look better in my opinion.

Here you can see the fan, the guard, and the 3D printed ring.

Once assembled into the panel it doesn’t look half bad! I plan to control the speed of the fan to also represent the amount of power the ship has… as you start running low the fan will slow down and eventually stop completely. Also I want to back light the fan with some orange-ish lights to make it look like its glowing from within, perhaps even making the lights flicker as the ship’s power dips.

Here’s the view from the back, you’ll notice I mounted the arduino controller inside and also added a 7-segment display under each meter these displays will just mirror what is represented on the meters. I did this mainly just for the looks but it will probably help with readability in tense combat situations.

You may have also noticed that I added the 8 torpedo tube selection buttons. It took me a while to decide how to arrange them but I eventually decided on 2 offset columns. It looks futuristic without taking up too much space on the panel.

That pretty much showcases all the work that I have done since the last post. As I mentioned earlier my schedule lately has been pretty hectic. I cant say when my next update will come but hopefully it wont take as long as this one did.

On the topic of LED brightness

I think a vision most builders have for their completed panels are having them all lit up with loads of various LEDs and indicators. I too have the same vision. However one thing to keep in mind is that some LEDs can be quite bright, especially the blue and white LEDs.(I’ll come back to this)

Now if you have even a little electronics knowledge you should know that you cant have an LED hooked directly hooked up to the 5 or 3.3V power supply of your arduino. You NEED a resistor to limit current and prevent killing your precious diodes. For standard 5mm LEDs a resistor somewhere in the range of 220 and 330 ohms is a good place to start. Obviously the more ohms the dimmer the light will become.

The LEDs I bulk ordered from china are quite bright especially when it comes to the Blue and White varieties. Having a bunch lit up shining in your face while your trying to play the game isn’t optimal. So I figured before I bulk order a bunch of resistors I should test each color LED and find a resistor value that gives each color an even and comfortable brightness. At first I thought the best way to do this would be to use a potentiometer in series with the LED to tune the brightness to a level I was happy with then use a multi-meter to measure the resulting resistance value. This is a perfectly acceptable way to do this but then I came across a method I liked a little better. (and is a lot more precise and reliable)

A “programmable” resistor! This board has 63 surface mount resistors on one side and 7 sets of headers on the other. Using the provided pin jumpers you can set the board to have ANY resistance value from 0 to 9,999,999 ohms (almost 10 Megaohms) I picked this up cheap off AliExpress for $2.98 CDN plus $4.90 CDN shipping. It will surely be a handy addition to my toolbox and i’m sure you’ll be seeing me use it down the road.

Ignore the misprints on the board, the max value is NOT 1000 Megaohms as the silkscreen implies. :p